Dog Collars

Dog Collars

Dr. Brenda Mills

There are many types and styles of collar available. Each one has its proponents and detractors. Used properly
and safely, most of them have a place in the tool chest of anyone handling a dog. Used improperly, however, even a
flat buckle collar can be a hazard to your dog’s health and safety.

All dogs should wear a non-slip collar with at least two tags (or one tag and a permanent embroidered or embossed
phone number) at all times. This will help ensure that, should your dog ever end up wandering loose, he or she can
be safely returned to you.

Buckle collars: These collars have either metal buckles or plastic quick-release snaps. Buckle collars are adjustable
either by means of a sliding ring arrangement (similar to the way the straps on a backpack are adjusted) or by
selecting the hole the buckle fits into. These collars are non-constricting and can be left on your dog at all times.
They should be adjusted so that the dog cannot slip the collar off over his ears (this usually means that you can only
slip two fingers under the collar easily). Every dog should have a buckle collar with ID tags on all of the time. These
collars can be made of flat or rolled leather, nylon strap, or rolled nylon. Buckle collars do apply pressure to the
throat when a dog pulls. May be safely used with retractable leads. May be used for tethering.

Harnesses: Fit around your dog's chest. These may be made of leather or nylon straps. Properly fitted, a harness
can be left on your dog while he is unsupervised, though some dogs will chew them off. The best harnesses are
designed in such a manner as to be strong enough and safe to lift your entire dog with in an emergency, and can
double as car restraints when used with safety straps. Harnesses are non-constricting and do not apply pressure to
the throat when the dog pulls. Harnesses are comfortable and safe for a dog to pull against, making them ideal for
tethering. Tags may be attached to harnesses safely. The body strap of most tracking-style harnesses should fit
around the ribcage such that you can slip two or three fingers underneath (to allow the dog ample breathing room)
with the shoulder straps just snug enough to keep the connecting strap against the breastbone at al times. May be
safely used with retractable leads. Safe for tethering.

Halters: Fit around the dog’s head and consist of a strap that goes around the neck, like a collar fitting high up
behind the ears, and a strap across the dog’s nose. There are several variations, including the Gentle Leader and
the Halti. There is no risk of strangulation using a halter, and some halters (Gentle Leader) may be left on the dog
while it is unsupervised. All halters should be removed at night. Halters should never be used for tethering, and may
be inappropriate for some dogs. There may be some risk of injury to the dog’s neck if the dog slams into the end of
the leash while wearing a halter. Tags should not be put on a halter. The collar-like strap that goes behind the ears
should, on most halters, fit snugly enough to prevent the strap from coming off over the ears, but refer to sizing
instructions for the particular brand of halter to determine correct fit. Not for use with retractable leads. Not for
tethering.

Prong collars (pinch collars): Consist of a series of interlocking metal links with blunt prongs that face the dog’s neck
and rest against the skin. These collars have a limit to how far they can constrict and have no risk of strangulation.
The blunt prongs actually protect the throat and blood vessels in the neck by allowing these structures to slip
between the prongs without being constricted. These collars should never be left on an unsupervised dog or used
for tethering. The strength and frequency of corrections may be reduced up to 80% by using a prong collar instead
of a slip collar. These collars are not to be confused with slip-type collars that have pointed nail-like prongs
embedded in leather or nylon. Tags should not be put on a prong collar. Prong collars should be fitted so that each
prong rests gently against the skin of the neck at all times. You should have to take the collar apart to put it on or
take it off – a prong collar should NEVER be loose enough to slide over a dog’s head. Quick release models are
available, and make “dressing” large dogs easier. Not for use with retractable leads. Not safe for tethering.

Slip collars: May be made of nylon rope, nylon strap, chain, or leather. These collars constrict and can constrict
infinitely. They apply pressure to the throat and can constrict the blood vessels in the neck. There is danger of
permanent damage to the throat or to the eyes due to constriction of the throat and jugular veins when these collars
are used. A dog may be killed by hanging with one of these collars. Tags should never be attached to a slip collar,
and slip collars should never be left on a dog who is unsupervised. Slip collars should never be used for tethering. If
a slip collar is used, the collar should be just large enough that when the slack is taken up from the collar on the dog’
s neck, there is 2-3 inches between the rings. Slip collars are not safe for use with retractable leads.

Specialized collars: There are a number of harnesses and collars designed for specific training exercises. These
include remote training collars and bark collars, electronic or citronella. If you are considering using one of these,
please consult with a professional trainer who is skilled in their use prior to purchasing them. Some of these devices,
if used or fitted improperly, can be physically hazardous to your dog or may cause more problems than they solve.

Tags

Tags are the primary means of identification for dogs. They should be fitted on a non-slip collar and should be worn
at all times, especially when your dog is unsupervised. Tags come in many sizes, shapes, colors and styles. They
may be slip-on (with slots to slip the collar through), riveted on, or clipped on with an O-ring or an S-clip. Slip on or
riveted tags do not dangle, will not get caught on things, and do not jangle and so are preferred by some people. O-
rings are occasionally mistaken for collar rings by well-meaning people, and will tear free if a leash is attached to
them and the dog pulls. This is, however, a safety feature – if the tag gets hung up on something, it will come free.
Of course, this leaves your dog with out identification. S-clips are less likely to come free, and probably won’t break if
they get caught on something, though tags themselves (especially plastic ones) may break off of the clip.

I recommend that each tag hang on a separate ring or clip in case the ring or clip fails. If jangling tags annoy you,
tags may be taped together or a tag pouch (which snaps onto the collar over the tags) may be used. Hanging tags
can be converted to rivet-on tags by drilling a second hole at the bottom of the tag.

My own dogs each wear an embroidered collar with contact cell phone number, a slip on tag with address and home
phone number, a hanging address tag with name and five phone numbers (home, husband’s cell, my work, my parent’
s home, a friend’s home) on it, a medic alert tag, and a tag that reads “If found please confine until owner is
contacted” on one side and “Give emergency care as needed all expenses will be paid” on the other, a Rabies tag,
and a license tag.